SABYASACHI MUKHERJEE
This blog is all about a critical analysis
of Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s success story, how he becomes so popular? How he earned
so much of name & fame? and how he is about to become a billionaire? This article
is also about his working style, his unique quality, his thinking, and most important thing how he advertise and makes
the product saleable?
1974 born Sabyasachi Mukherjee is a noted Indian fashion designer from Kolkata (India).
Since 1999, he is selling designer wear under label ‘Sabyasachi’. Sabyasachi
Mukherjee is the youngest board member of the National Museum of Indian Cinema. He has designed
costumes for Bollywood films such as Guzaarish, Babul, Laaga Chunari Mein Daag, Raavan, English
Vinglish etc
His pet
name is Pepsi. During his 1st year in NIFT seniors have given this
name, as he looked like a Pepsi advertisement boy (during that time on TV Pepsi
advertisement was popular because of funky and colourful dress, Sabya use to dressed -up
in same manner ) He used to feel irritated when anybody called him Pepsi but
after certain period of time he started loving the name.
A BRIEF INTRODUCTION
His mother, Sandhya Mukherjee
worked at Government Art College . Sabyasachi's sister Shingini Mukherjee
(Payal), who is 7 years younger to him, manages the business of the label. Mukherjee studied at NIFT-Kolkata.
After his graduation, he opened a workshop in Kolkata with initial capital 25000
only, Over the years, he has built a
clothing brand which has a strong social perspective Mukherjee, whose pet name
is Pepsi (given by his seniors during ragging in NIFT),
1999, Sabyasachi Mukherjee
graduated from the National
Institute of Fashion Technology – Kolkata with three major awards..
2001, Sabyasachi won the Famine
British Council’s most outstanding young Designer of India award, and went to London for an
internship with an eclectic designer based in Salisbury.
Returning home, Sabyasachi started retailing at all major stores in India.
2002, Sabyasachi participated at
the India
Fashion Week where
his debut collection earned him positive reviews from the national and
international press. On a cover by Women's Wear Daily,
he was reckoned as the future of Indian fashion.
2003, Sabyasachi made his debut
on the international runway, with the “grand winner award” at the Mercedes
Benz New
Asia Fashion week in Singapore,
which paved his way to a workshop in Paris by Jean
Paul Gaultier. His collection "Kora" at the Lakme
Fashion Week2003 in which he used unbleached and hand woven fabrics with Kantha( a traditional hand
embroidery which is famous in India).
He was declared the best Designer of India at the MTV Lycra style
awards and won the “Society” Achievers award for the best new Indian designer.
2004, Sabyasachi took a step
ahead with Kuala
Lumpur Fashion
Week and The Miami
Fashion Week with
a bohemian take on Indian textiles and his collection was called "The Frog
Princess". His tiny London store awarded by Vogue as “the best
shopping destination in the world”
He earned the distinction of being
the only Indian designer to be invited to showcase at the Milan
Fashion Week2004
2005, his spring-summer
collection, "The Nair Sisters" was inspired by hand
block printing, embroideries, bagru prints and
the extensive use of Indian traditional hand woven fabrics. The collection was
sold at Browns & Selfridges in London. He
was requested to showcase his collections at the prestigious Oxford
University annual
black tie charity dinner fashion show.
2006, Sabyasachi’s After debut
Spring Summer collection’07 at New York Fashion Week his label
started selling world-wide. He is the only Indian designer to be a part of all
three leading fashion weeks: New York, Milan and London. Sabyasachi believes
that the unique positioning of Indian designers is due to the exclusivity of
his homeland with its rich history and culture. He believes that Indian
designers bring a flavor to the west that is no longer perceived as only exotic
but also a rich blend of individuality and sensitivity.
2007, Sabyasachi participated at
the New York and at the London Fashion Weeks plus Bridal Asia 2007, Lakme India
Fashion Week and the Vogue Launch event in India. His “Sanctuary” collection
showcased at Lakme Fashion Week Fall Winter 08 received positive reviews from
the fashion editor of the New York Times, Suzy
Menkes.
The designer made his debut to
the Cannes
Film Festival in
the year 2011.
DESIGN PHILOSPHY OF SABYASACHI
MUKHERJEE:
Once in an interview he said “I don’t consider myself a designer, I just
make pretty clothes. Sabyasachi Mukharjee uses unusual fabrics,
texturing and detailing, 'fusion' of Indo-western style, 'patch-work' with
embellishments and vibrant colors. He describes his own collections as 'an
International styling with an Indian soul. Sabyasachi Mukharjee collection is always
gives rich look.
His signature style is originality, as he moves between
stunningly crafted bridal wear and perfectly structured western statement. The
designer draws his inspiration from art such as the cloudscapes of French
impressionists like Monet and Henry Matisse in his clothes.
He pioneered the use of Indian textiles in a modern context.
His unique contribution was the use of indigenous methods like bandhani , gota patti work,
hand dye etc. in
construction of modern silhouette.
Sabyasachi as Presentation Guru
He thinks different , he lives different and he presents his
work differently. Since his college days his presentation always drew the
attention of all. He speaks less but his work speaks more than him. He comes-up
with unexpected themes, sometime he had differences with his faculties (at the
same time some of the faculties were blindly supporting him). He utilised all
the opportunities to work well, he is a master of in-cashing the opportunities.
Juniors & seniors and also faculties members used to wait eagerly for the
presentation of Sabyasachi. (Please note when I say presentation it means not
only verbal presentation but also a display which NIFTians usually do.)
Whatever themes he used to select, according to that theme he used to change
the entire area/environment (macro environment) by using appropriate props. No
matter how much time required to accomplish but he used to do the work exactly as
he planned of , he was never satisfied unless things were done as per his
imagination and planning ( he never said kam chal jayega)
While his classmates were busy on the kam chalau
presentation (completed work, made PPT or chart/slide presentation). He was
busy in decorating the ambiance. For example If he would have taken a theme
like Heritage of Rajasthan, first he would follow design process, then designed
garments and give them an impression of Rajasthani origin (in terms of
silhouette -Jodhpuri harem, Rajwada style, Technique- some where he will use
Bandhani, bagru , sanganeri ... etc Fabric- hand woven, Embellishment- heavy
jardoji .. etc ) Then he would have selected the area to be displayed, afterward
he would think of the props to be used to compliment the theme like- Gold
plate, lota , hukka , matka , Rajasthani Laheria Pagdi, then he would paint the wall( if
necessary ) ,.
He always followed design process. Same thing is still continuing,
wherever he does any exhibition you can easily see that he is following design
process same kind of display as I mentioned above. He never forgot to make mood
board, colour palate and write-up; sometimes he plays AV (audio visual) for his
show. He is a good make-up artist, during his show /exhibition or photo-shoot
he decides make-up and sometimes he ends-up doing make-up by himself.
If you will see his working style in his workshop you will
be amazed that how he gives brief to his junior designers/merchandisers /production
assistants. Recently he briefed about a theme and went out of Kolkata 7 Days before the final show he came
and showed the designs, according to him it was not up to the satisfactory
level, at that moment he took the decision to change the entire theme, dropped
all the styles and started working on new theme and finally within 7 days he
did it. He is the only designer who can work 14 hours in a day continuously
without taking a break.
He knows what things can attract the people most ? He knows
at what extent it will affect the thinking process of the others? He knows how to mark an impression in the eyes
of the viewer.
Recently he took an initiative called SAVE THE SAREE he was
aware of the sentiments of the people in India, he got acclaimed and many other
celebrities came forward to support him( Including Aiswariya Bachhanm , Rani
Mukharjee, Madhuri Dixit.)
At initial stage he has taken themes like Prostitute –
before taking this type of theme he was aware that If I will design on theme
like “Prostitute” people will talk about my designs, It may fetch
popularity, I can win the sentiments of
the so called thinkers of the society (It was too risky as well because that
time society was not so liberal and it was an experiment.)
THE UNIQUE THING SABYASACHI DOES
-
His collection
He is the only designer who dares to use shades of black in
his bridal collection; he is mostly using quality materials in his Lehanga and
Saree and doing many unique process before
using metal tikki , bullions and cord like oxidising , dyeing in tea &
coffee, and spread materials at the roof for few days so that it look faded
(antique look) Initially he was using
Indian traditional textiles (hand woven fabric) like chanderi silk, dupian
silk, silk georgette, matka silk, thin khadhi , Jamnagar bandhej so it can touch
the sentiments of the customers
In most of the ranges he is using hand embroidery, he has
strong believes in the power of the
craftsmanship, He has approx 3000 hand embroidery Karigers (craftsmans ) and
they are working day & night. These days he is experimenting with machines,
he has computer embroidery unit, manual black head embroidery machine unit.
First he develops ‘base’ on machine embroidery and then go for highlights with
hand embroidery (after heavy highlight with the sequins (tikki ) Dbaka, bullion,
you will not be able to recognise that machine has been used to make this
product)
His nomenclature
is very interesting and catchy, he use terms from the bottom of his heart and
it comes instantly. For example he has Rajasthani Lehanga, Pan patta , Zhilmil
Lehanga, lakh buti lehanga , angarkha , Patina, Char bhag kurta , deepika border,
Bipasa cut... etc (sometime he makes a gaown and termed it is a Designer Saree like TOGA SAREE) It may sound funny but his customers knows these
terms.
-
Marketing strategy
He knows how to create hype, since his starting days he is
doing this technique for promotion. Two years after he opened his first
workshop, he started giving a scholarship award in NIFT Kolkata by his name. ( he
was giving 25000 to a college topper every year, it was a little amount for
others but please note he was struggling hard to manage his own expenses at
initial stage ) This act very impressive, all NIFT students started talking about
Sabya and it becomes viral in Kolkata.
Before new collection launch he creates hype in the market,
he is well connected to the Bollywood celebrities he use to give his new pieces
to the celebrity for free to attend events like Cannes film festival , Red Carpet,
Film Fare Award . . etc , does photo-shoot, gives advertisement in national fashion magazines like Vogue
India, ELLE, Harper Bazar , Cosmopolitan, Bizarre... etc , Comes in live show on
TV.. etc . Once the designs noticed by the people, designer gets huge order.
Recently he went to Paris, before his launch he designed few
‘three-wheelers auto’ painted it in Sabya style and running it through the city
for a month. So he is master of creating hypes and demand. I hope you remember, opening of his Mumbai
show room. All media houses were showing that report, he did unique things in
the store but most importantly he marketed it so well that it marked an
impression on all fashion connoisseurs and they remember his store. He sells his Lehanga Saree and other garments
through his exclusive stores in India and overseas. He also sells his
collection through other stores (designer wear stores) and websites.
-
Customisation
-
Customer interaction
He has a relationship with
customers like a family member. He
interacts so well that the customers do not feel like stranger . He maintains
his status, most of the time (almost 365 days)
he stays in the Taj Hotel (5 star). Though his workshop is in bypass
(very cheap and unhygienic area) but his show rooms situated at posh area of
the city) He attend functions and treat the customers very well. Customers feel
so comfortable that they( most of them) call Sabyasachi by his pet name “Pepsi”
-
Exclusive Trial
Most interesting features of the
“Sabyasachi couture” is trial , after customisation he gives a date to come for
trial. He has tie-up with leading jewellers of India. They give all kinds of
bridal jewellery to Sabyasachi couture for trial. If a bride wants to see, how
exactly will she look on the auspicious day of her marriage? Sabya gives a make-up (at nominal charge ), jewellery
(everything which she should wear in marriage). After make-up and dress, photographers’
click her photographs and show to the bride that how will you look in the
marriage. In one bride trial it took around 4-5 hours, by this heart wining
efforts he actually wins the confidence of bride and groom. Can you imagine 5
hours for a trial; I don’t think that any customer will leave the store empty
handed. Once a bride family enters in his store they spend 40-45 lakh (on an
average) for the shopping.
-
Pricing policy
He does not have any defined pricing policy. After completion
of styles merchandisers sit together with Sabyasachi and decide price .
Generally, Sabyasachi Couture sets MRP at 5 times the cost price. For example if
manufacturing cost of a Lehanga is 60 thousand they will not sell it below
300000.
Sabyasachi Couture sells Lehanga (with blouse and two Duppatta) - Rs 2,00000 to 15,00000
Saree (with blouse
and skirt) - Rs 85000 to 10,00000
Even a single dupatta he charge from 10,000 to 50,000. Belt
starts from 10,000.
According to statics by search engine most of the People who
search Sabya on internet they use keywords like “what price point Sabyasachi is
selling Lehanga and Saree?” , “Sabyasachi
lehanga price?” , “price range of
Sabyasachi Lehanga and Saree?”.. etc
After seeing this report i concluded that “people have price
phobia about Sabyasachi” so tried to contact with his different stores to have
better insight.
New
initiatives
Mr Mukherjee started a project
called “SAVE
THE SAREE “where
he retails hand-woven Indian sarees on a non-profit basis priced at 3500 &
the entire proceed goes to the weavers of Murshidabad. This
initiative is also strongly supported by Bollywood divas.
He has been developing textiles
from Dastkarin-Andhra Pradesh, Berozghar Mahili
Samitiin-Bihar, Tantubay Samiti-Fulia and Kotpadin-Orissa.
The designer uses rich ethnic fabrics in his collection - extensive use of Banarasi fabric
can be seen in his range. Over the past two years he has also
been involved in reviving cotton Benarasi saree in pure Khadhi and
vegetable hand block prints from Bagru.
He is one of the designers who,
promoted khadhi in the International platform. Sotheby's London hosted an
exhibition of contemporary design named 'Inspired by India' where the designer
showcased his work of khadi . Sabyasachi's collection of
Winter-Festive Lakme Fashion Week 2011 revived the finer version of Khadi.
SWOT Analysis of designer label Sabyasachi couture
Strength
1. The brand depends on the success
of its creator Sabyascahi who was awarded as the best designer for the ethnic wear
segment.
2. The brand hasshowcase its collections through various fashion show , movies
and TV shows like Band Baaja Bride which have been a success.
3. The brand has a list of Bollywood stars like Rani Mukherjee in its clientele which is a major highlight.
4. The vibrant colors of the season displayed in its collections are a highlight.
2. The brand has
3. The brand has a list of Bollywood stars like Rani Mukherjee in its clientele which is a major highlight.
4. The vibrant colors of the season displayed in its collections are a highlight.
Weakness
The brand has not been able to break out of its bridal wear
mould .
The brand is not
present in all major cities in India which reduces brand visibility.
Opportunity
The brand can start online selling which has emerged as an
effective medium for sale in recent times.
The brand can improve
its international presence by tapping NRI’s which have the buying power for the
brand.
The brand can
diversify into other line like fusion-wear which would be great boost to it.
Threats
The foray of various designers in
the Indian wear segment has increased competition
The brand is facing threat from
designer western wear which is gaining prominence.
Competitors
2. Anamika Khanna
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